The Outdoor Gym: Climbing in Penitente Canyon

Penitente Canyon is a unique spot. Situated about four hours south of Denver and an hour from Sand Dunes National Park, Penitente Canyon is as close to an indoor climbing gym as it gets. The approach to the closest climb in the canyon from the parking lot is a mere 100 feet, with the rest of the climbing only being a ten or so minute walk down the tight canyon walls.

The closest and most popular campground can be found right before the canyon, but I suggest taking a left a few hundred yards before entering the main grounds and camping on BLM land. The spots are larger, more spread out, and you don't have to pay $20/night. It's a win-win.

Duffy, Jonathon and I got to the crag at about 8:00AM Saturday morning and were shocked to find that on this beautiful, 70 degree morning, hardly another soul there. This may be due to the vast majority of the climbs being on the east face of the canyon, and most people waiting until things warm up a bit to begin their day.

We walked into the canyon, looked at one of the first routes we saw and decided to hop on it. It turned out to be Morning Glory, a short, fun 10c/d. It being our first outdoor route and first of the chilly morning (in the shade, at least), we all hung at least once. The beginning is straight-forward, but there is a strange move in the middle of the route where you have to make an awkward reach left onto a crimp with poor feet.

After Morning Glory we went over and hit Ordinary People, a slabby, crimpy 5.8, May-B Nueve (a reference to it initially being graded 5.8 though 5.9 seems more appropriate), and then onto Captain America .10a. The latter is a fun one, though you may want to stick-clip the second bolt. If you slip beforehand you're looking at a ground-fall, though the holds are solid all the way up.

Jon on "May-B Nueve:

And below, Jon on Captain America

We then jumped on the ultra-classic Black is Beautiful .11a previously known as "Whipping Post." This is a great route with a tricky start before opening up to sustained but straightforward crimps to the chains. There are also a number of two-finger pockets that require a bit of reaching but provide a nice break from the consistent crimping.

The weather unfortunately turned and we started to feel some sprinkles. At this point we decided to retreat back to the campground for lunch and maybe hunker down for a bit. A "super burrito" and alcoholic kombucha provided the perfect power lunch for me, as Duffy snacked on some PB&honey burritos, and Jonathon some leftovers.

We hung out at our site and decided to relax until the next day, as the weather was so volatile we didn't feel the need to go back into the canyon. A slingshot from Jonathon's car's center console provided the evening entertainment.

Sunday

The next day we got up a bit later and once again drove the short 5 or 10 minutes into the Canyon. We warmed up on American Hero .10a after we saw that our chiefly-desired climb - Tanks for the Huecos - was taken by a group of about 6 (ugh). American Hero is a great climb, and different from a lot of what the rest of the canyon offers. A fun, technical start with some hand jams leads to face climbing leads to a fun jaunt up to the chains. (Watch out for the cactus in the crack about ten feet before the anchor).

Just left of American Hero is Jack and Diane, another stellar .10a that provides a perfect second warmup to the day. Layback the beginning part of the crack, move out onto some crimpy face climbing before you hit a huge ledge. Walk over and clip a bolt and shake out the arms, then finish the last ten feet of easy climbing to the chains. Everyone sent these easily and spirits were high as we moved 100 yards back into the beginning canyon to where the most classic climbs are located.

From left to right are some of Penitente Canyon's most classic climbs: Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 11c, The Virgin .13a, Not My Cross to Bear .11a/b, Bullet the Blue Sky .12c/d (mega-classic, striking arete), and Tanks for the Huecos .10d. We climbed Tanks, and decided to watch another climber grunt, swear, sweat and bleed his way through the first few bolts of Bullet the Blue Sky.

Tanks for the Huecos is awesome, though. A bit of a strange crack that can (and should) be laybacked as it is flaring and super greasy leads you to the real start of the climb. Wind a bit to the left and clip your third bolt (this feels nice after a bit of a runout after the crack), and shoot more or less straight up, picking and choosing whichever hueco suits your fingers best.

Jonathon took one strange fall in the crack as he tried to climb it directly (too many days at the Creek in my opinion), but then easily sent when he laybacked it and cruised through the huecos to the chains. I unfortunately one-hung just a few feet from the top.

A climber on Not my Cross to Bear:

Another climber on the classic arete, Bullet the Blue Sky

And Jon topping out on Tanks for the Huecos as I belayed:

All in all, Penitente Canyon is a small, unique spot providing some technical, fun sport climbing. Maybe not the biggest in terms of either route selection or walls, but an enjoyable, easily-accessible canyon that's well worth exploring.